Tower Gully

After my recent success soloing Central Trinity on the Clogwyn Y Garnedd face of Snowdon the day before, and a clear but windy forecast for the weekend, I was keen to try and get out and keep the winter route snowball rolling as long as I could. With Jo tucked up in bed with the flu, Tadams, Tom and I made plans to meet at Ogwen Cottage at half 7 on Saturday morning with the idea of heading up to Cwn Cniefion and seeing what looked in nick.
 

I have to say, rolling out of bed at half 6 that morning was tough, but with my kit already packed I crawled into the car and made my way through the darkness of Snowdonia and into the Ogwen Valley. When I arrived, I was pleased to see an empty car park but for Toms Fiesta, meaning that we would have most groups behind us and hopefully the best pickings in terms of routes.
 

As we made our way up the path towards Cwm Idwal I walked of the stiffness of the previous days solo, and as the sun lit up the Cwm it was great to see both Idwal and Cniefion looking great with a decent covering of snow and ice. The previous weeks cold temperatures had frozen the Llyn and even though none of the major ice routes in Cwm Idwal were formed, if the cold temperatures continued on for another few days there could be definite potential. As we carried on, we passed through the kissing gate and then forked left up the valley towards Cwm Cniefion, always trying to keep a good pace to keep ahead of the crowds.

Once in the Cwm, we had a quick look around and with time our sides decided that if we climbed our first route swiftly, more than one route could be done whilst the ice remained solid in the early part of the day. With that thought in mind and with a quick look in the guidebook, Golden Girl Ali was our route of choice. Working up the left side of the Cwm and starting up the first pitch of Tower Gully, the route then snakes off up the left and up a buttress of rock with what looked like good mix climbing. At grade IV it would be our hardest climb of the winter so far, but all feeling confident we were soon racking up at the base of Tower Gully and looking forward to the climbing ahead.



Tom and Tom checking out what looks good in Cwm Cneifon.

Tadams quickly set off on the lead with Tom and I each tied into the end of one double rope, our thinking that once a belay was built, both the seconds could quickly follow the leader. The climbing was good and ice solid, with progress only being slowed by a few steeper ice steps that kept the climbing interesting and varied. However, as we gained height and true to the forecast the wind speed had picked up to a level where it was nearly impossible to communicate as we made our way up the pitch.

Tadams leading the first pitch of Tower Gully.

With the first pitch ending just before the crux of Tower Gully, Tadams built a belay and Tom and I quickly climbed up to meet him. At this point we took time to chat and dig out goggles from our rucksacks to protect our eyes from the ice and snow now flying at us a 50mph. With the start of Golden Girl Ali up to our left and following the line of the steep and exposed buttress, we took time to chat and weigh up our options.

After a few minutes of discussion, it was decided that going for the route would be slightly too much for us in the current conditions, and with the superb Tower Gully continuing above us we still had the chance to climb on brilliant ground on what is a classic route.

Feeling like we had made a sensible decision, Tadams again moved away from the belay and towards the crux of Tower Gully, a 6 foot section of off vertical ice that he climbing without a worry. From there the ground was easy and he continued quickly with only a few pauses to place gear. Once again I was on the move swiftly, with none of the moves feeling too hard or strenuous. As I was moving up each axe swing landed on good ice and each kick step was solid, and with the large Golden Girl Ali buttress hanging over the left hand side of the gully and the wind and snow buffeting us, it gave the route a 'real winter climbing' feel.

Once again the three of us met at the belay and took a minute to soak up the atmosphere and discuss our options. With the majority of Tower Gully now climbed and the ground starting to ease up in angle, Tom suggested we had a go a climbing the upper reaches of the buttress we intended to climb from the base. It seemed like a good idea and once again we kept moving to avoid getting too cold. Whilst it was only a short pitch, it provided fun mixed climbing as a nice contrast to the ice we had climbed on the previous two pitches. The line Tom chose had a mix of good hooks and foot placements and gave us a little insight into what climbing Golden Girl Ali would have been like from the start.

Tadams off exploring on the Goldern Girl Ali buttress. 

Once climbed, we each took our turn to pull up and over onto the top of the buttress, instantly being struck by the relentless wind that was battering the upper slopes of Glyder Fawr. Looking around we quickly found a boulder to shelter behind and made a dash for it before we could be blown off our feet. Now in the lee of the rock, we took our time to have a bite to eat, take a celebratory photo and discuss what to do next.

Topping out after climbing Tower Gully.

After a quarter of a hour or so, we decided the best plan of action would be to head back down into Cwm Cniefion and rather than take the grade I Easy Route towards the base of the Cwm, we would head for the top of Hidden Gully. We could then down climb, hoping that the sheltered nature of the gully would make for interesting and fairly comfortable descent. Luckily enough for us, once moving we didn’t meet anyone coming up the route and we made quickly progress towards the base of Clogwyn Du. Once there, Tadams and Tom had their sights set on climbing Cleft Gully, a grade V route following a line of weakness up the main crag and towards the summit of Glyder Fawr.

At this point, I decided that with winter routing plans already made for the following day, the route would be too much for me and I would leave them too it. So with a quick exchange, I lent the boys my ice screws and made my way towards Cwm Idwal and the lower slopes of the Glyders. Later on that day, Tadams and Tom dropped by my house to bring back my gear and have a chat about the route. From what they said Cleft Gully turned out to be a fantastic, sustained route on good quality, steep ice. Well done boys and a good days winter climbing had by all.

More North Wales winter...





Over the past few weeks we have been spoilt for choice in terms of winter conditions here in North Wales, and I have been trying to take advantage of every opportunity to get out and climb. First up, and with a couple of lieu hours to spare at work, I had the change to get away early on Friday and get a jump on the weekend crowds up in the mountains.

 

One of the winter routes I have most wanted to climb since moving up to Snowdonia is Central Trinity on Clogwyn Y Garnedd. Whilst not especially difficult, the climb could not be in a better setting with a top out on the summit of Snowdon, and with a three start rating it was sure to be a cracker.

 

So with all my kit in the car, I raced out of work and made my way to the Pen Y Gwryd hotel before setting off for what was a pretty sizeable solo walk in. From the Pen Y Pass car park I joined the Miners Track that skirts round the shores of Llyn Llydaw before stopping at the path junction with the Pyg Track to sort my gear and traverse over to the base of Clogwyn Y Garnedd.

Clogwyn Y Garnedd in great condition with Central Trinity going up the middle of the face. Taken from the Snowdon Miners track.
 

Traversing over, I quickly found trail of footsteps leading up to the base of the route and as my eyes followed them up the face, I could see they made they way up to the Spider, a snowfield feature in the middle of the face with eight arms leading off it, up Central Trinity and towards the summit. I have to say I gave a sigh of relief that I wasn't going to be breaking trail up the route, as I was this was going to be an afternoon ascent and it would make progress faster. So with time against me and my crampons already fitted, I set off up the base of the climb making the most of the hard-fought footsteps that would be leading my way.

After 100m of climbing and reaching the Spider, I quickly paused to get my other ice axe off my bag and look where the route went from here. Looking up and down the face of Clogwyn Y Garnedd, it was hard not to be impressed with the setting of the climb and with a steep rock wall to my right and a decent drop below me the atmosphere of the climb was fantastic. As I continued up and beyond the snowfield, it was a great sensation to be moving in the mountains quickly and confidently, with each step below my feet feeling solid and my axes holding well in the snow to give me balance.

A further ten minutes of climbing above the Spider is the crux of the route, this consists of a 4 foot overhanging boulder in a section of the climb that is flanked by a blank slab to the left and a rock wall to the right. Both options were too much for a solo attempt on a route like this, so a quick weigh of options meant that it would be the boulder that guarded my path to the rest of the route. Whilst not especially hard in isolation, the setting of the climb definitely has an impact on moments like this, and as I approached the boulder, I told myself I would take a minute, catch my breath and then climb on.

Once rested and standing in the recess below the boulder, I had a looked up and around the step to decide where would be best for my axes and feet to be placed. Being overhanging, two crucial crampon placements would be needed to push my body up and over the step and onto easier ground. Once found, I sunk my axes into the solid snow above the boulder and pushed up with my legs, focusing my weight over the front points of my crampons. A second later I was up and over the crux of Central Trinity.

Looking toward the summit of Snowdon from just above the crux step.
 

A few steps further on I took another moment to stop, look around and take photo's. Standing there above the boulder step and looking back down the gully was a great feeling, knowing that the major difficulty of the climb lay behind me and the going was easier towards the top. Having never really spent anytime soloing winter routes before, there was a great sense of freedom to climbing without the claustrophobia of a full rack, ropes, coils and all that climbing with others brings.



Looking back down the gully from just above the crux boulder on Central Trinity
 

With the crux dispatched and conscious that it was around 4pm and darkness only an hour away, I turned my attention back to the summit of Snowdon and the rest of the route. Making my way up the snowy gully and gaining altitude I noticed the temperature decreasing, my crampons and axe placements only feeling more solid as I climbed the remaining 200m of gully. With my legs pushing and my arms pulling I quickly travelled up the rest of the gully, the grounding levelling off as I reached the summit ridge of Snowdon.

Topping out was a great feeling and as I stepped onto the path I was greeted by a pair that had walked up the PyG track watching my progress as they made their way to the summit. We had a quick chat and exchanged pleasantries before we went our separate ways, me setting off to walk the final 50m to the summit and them descending towards Llanberis.

After a minute or two alone on the summit and with wind howling and the light fading I quickly descended the café steps and headed for the shelter of the PyG track, knowing that I was safe and knew the way down, I stopped to take play with my camera and take photos, and appreciate the setting and look up at the face that I had just climbed.

Experimenting with my iPhone pano feature to see if it works vertically.
 

Walking down the track towards the Pen Y Pass car park and reflecting on my first winter solo, all I could think how fun the climb had been and how that added sense of responsibility had seemed to make the climbing experience more rewarding and engrossing, the sense of consequence making you focus on the climbing in front of you and forget about your surroundings.

Once back at the car park, I celebrated the successful ascent with a brew and a chocolate bar before thumbing a lift down the hill and back to the comfort of my car. All in all, a fantastic route that was made all the better by being done solo. Lets hope for more of the same as the winter progresses.

First day of North Wales winter

Over the last few weeks the winter conditions here in North Wales have been fantastic, with regular snow and cold temperatures meaning that most routes have been in decent condition. With this in mind, I have been trying to get out as much as possible and so far I have managed to tick off a handful of brilliant North Wales classics.

First off was a trip up to the ever reliable Cwm Cneifon, with its vast array of routes spreading through the grade range from easy grade I's up to the baffling grade X on the face of Clogwn Du, there is something for everyone and with a fairly short walk in its a firm winter routing favourite. After a early start and walk up past Cwm Idwal into the Cwm with the two Tom's, we decided to get our winter season going with a ascent of Tower Slabs, a grade II/III on the left hand side of the Cwm.




Clogwyn Du looking good from Tower Slabs.

It really was great to be moving on snow and ice again after what must be at least two years away from winter climbing for me. At first I felt uneasy and tentative on my feet, with my crampons feeling very alien on the good quality ice. But with every pitch climbed I began to feel more at ease with moving with tools and it was a joy to be out on the ice.



Tom leading the crux pitch of Tower Slabs.



Tom and Tom looking psyched for winter climbing?

With the 3 pitches of Tower Slabs passing by quickly, we topped out as a group at mid-morning and were greeted by a fierce wind at the top of the crag. Looking around for shelter, we hunkered down behind a few boulders and had a drink, bite to eat and discussed our plans. With us all keen to do another route, we decided to descend back down into the Cwm and see what looked good and was free from traffic.

Looking around the Cwm we quickly settled on Hidden Gully, a grade II 3 star route at the left of Clogwyn Du. At only 120m long it wouldn't take long to climb and having built up some confidence on the previous route we all decided to solo the gully. As we walked to the base of the route, we joined the trail of footsteps that lead up to the narrowly cleft in the crag and worked our way up the base of the route.

The going was good and fast and before long we had made it to the crux of the route, a short vertical rock step that required two good axe placements and a good heave hoe up onto you feet. With this quickly despatched, we all continued on up and topped out onto a busy Cwm Cneifon rim.



A busy day at Cwm Cneifon.

With the wind still blowing strong, we quickly decided that descending via the Gribin and back towards Idwal would be the most interesting route down, providing shelter from the wind and bringing us right back to the car.

Once back down, it was time for the obligatory post routing bite to eat at the Moel Siabod Café and a chance to decide what was next on our ticklist.